The components of a tree can be divided into three main parts: the root system, the leaves and the woody “skeleton” that connects them. The function of the root system is to provide the raw materials necessary for growth such as mineral salts, dissolved in water, to the tree. The leaves perform photosynthesis though the absorption of carbon dioxide from the surrounding air and using the energy from the sun, convert this into the simple sugars. These sugars are then combined with the moisture from the roots to give the tree its nutrients.

The trunk, limbs, branches and twigs act as the tree’s skeleton to hold the leaves in position so that they receive the life-giving sunlight and air. They are also used for transportation as they carry raw materials between the roots and leaves. Capillary attraction pulls up the materials absorbed through the roots and this is also assisted by the osmotic action induced by the evaporation of water from the leaves. This loss of water through the leaves is known as transpiration. On any summer day, a birch tree can transpire between 700 to 900 gallons of water.This is what causes the sap to continuously flow from the roots to the twigs at the very top of the tree.

A gardener’s most important consideration is to protect the tree’s root structure, especially when the tree is to be transplanted or preserved on a building site. The larger roots close to the stem are the tree’s “anchor” and the fine root hairs at the ends of the smaller roots are those responsible for water absorption.

The stem or trunk of a tree is made of three parts: the bark, the wood and the pith. The pith is the central part and is surrounded by the wood. Between the wood and bark is the cambium which is a thin layer that produces new wood and bark. Should the cambium ring be severed, for example, by a wire cable, the tree will die. As the cambium protects the tree against insects and disease, anything driven into it can severely damage the tree.

There are many things that can cause damage to a tree, including man. There are around 200,000 known species of insects that are known to attack and damage trees. As well as these, there are diseases such as blight, rust and rot, and natural occurrences such as storms, fires and droughts can also damage a tree. As some form of balance, birds help to control the spread of caterpillars, borers, harmful beetles and other insects that are likely to damage the tree.

Feeding Trees

In nature, trees grow and shed their leaves. These leaves decay, forming a good soil for the tree. These leaves also assist in preserving moisture in the soil. When a tree is grown on a lawn, it must compete with the grass for its nutrients and moisture. Leaves are raked up to prevent problems with the grass. As such, a successful gardener would be well advised to supplement the tree’s nutrients every two to three years.

This feeding should be done when the ground is easily “worked”, preferably in the spring or in the fall. A difficult but nonetheless worthwhile way of feeding is to strip the grass from an area all around the tree at least 2 to 3 feet beyond the outer branches, as the root system extends this far. Apply stable (horse) or barnyard (cow or chicken)manure to this area, ensuring that it is around 3 inches thick and then dig it in. After this is done, firm down the soil, rake it level and replace the grass.

One of the easy and simple backyard ideas is to drill holes over the same area, 12 to 18 inches deep. In order not to destroy any garden landscape ideas, these holes are spaced about 15 inches apart. Then fill each of these holes with a prepared fertilizer made from bone meal, tankage, peat moss or humus plus chemicals, in a formula equivalent to 10% nitrogen,6% phosphoric acid and 4% potash.

Water and Trees

During the hotter days of summer, lawn and specimen trees must be given a deep watering at least every 10 days to counteract the effects of transpiration and reduce stress on the tree. Light watering is inadequate, as the roots are very deep, so the hose or sprinkler should be left to run for at least an hour. Loosen soil that is compacted with a garden fork or similar and in the case of a large tree, holes of about 1 1/2 inches in diameter, 3 to 5 inches deep and 3 feet apart should be bored into the soil around the perimeter of the outer branches. The hose should be covered with sacking and left to run, or alternatively use a canvas hose. A good idea when planting a new tree is to place a piece of hose into the hole over draining tiles and this will ensure that water reaches the subsoil around the tree’s roots. The drain holes should be covered with stones to avoid evaporation.

Particular varieties of perennials can be used to cultivate new plants. General methods for propagating new plants are to utilize cuttings, dividing old clumps, and budding. Some plants are easier to propagate because a number of methods can be used, but there are some plants that can only be propagated ONE way.

Cutting is the method of removing a petite segment of a growing plant and treating it so that roots will develop. Cuttings can be transplanted and will produce its own blossoms over time. Cuttings can be made from stem, leaf, root, or tuber portions and are generally rooted in a mixture of sand and peat moss.

Rooting a leaf can propagate lots of perennials. Begonias and gloxinia, and other plants with thick fleshy leaves, are predominantly suited to this technique. The leaf stem is placed in the rooting medium and cared just as a cutting is cared for.

Many people use plant hormones when propagating new plants. The use of plant hormone will significantly improve the chances of propagating from leaves, even when a particular plant is considered tricky to propagate by this technique. Hormones are particularly victorious with holly, magnolia, rhododendron, azalea, taxus, and many others.

Dividing clumps is one of the easiest techniques of propagation. Not only is it simple, It is good for the aged divided plants. Many perennials weaken if left in clumps for too long. Dividing them will insure continuous well being and development.

The plants should be carefully removed from the soil, in clumps, and divided plainly by pulling them apart. Care should be taken not to injure the roots of the plant during this process. Divided plants are then to be potted. If the division is completed early on in spring, as with the hardier perennials, the new clump should be planted in a different division of the garden. The new planting should be well fertilized and adequately watered.

Remember, with any propagation project, plants are living, breathing things. No matter how devilish their names are like the Devil’s Ivy, they should be treated with the utmost care and concern if they are to thrive and grow. You should always strive to provide adequate lighting and water, as well as fertilization and irrigation for all the plants including the Devil’s Claw in your garden, greenhouse, or flowerbed.

If you are an avid gardener, learning the techniques of propagation should be a priority for you. All you will need to be successful is a little patience and a little practice. You can learn more about these techniques with a little online research or a quick trip to the local library or bookstore for some resource material on plants and gardening.

Once you’ve mastered these methods of propagation, you will, without doubt, have the most successful, healthy, and esthetically pleasing garden possible.

A popular and enduring garden decor theme is the “enchanted” garden.In them you will find delightful expressions of whimsy such as faeries and water nymphs, frogs of all description and gnomes, surrounded by a bright and cheerful display of many varieties of wildflowers.

Many of the “old” religions viewed gnomes as those who tendered the earth and took care of its wealth. Many people now have gnomes in their gardens and they can be found in many styles and characters. Some gnome statues also have solar lights and these provide charming illumination in the enchanted garden. It is thought that having a gnome in your garden will ensure that the plants grow healthy, though its “lucky” properties. No enchanted garden is complete without at least one gnome!

Everyone knows that including faeries in your garden will increase your chances of receiving little “gifts” from them, if they like you. Some faeries are known to be “naughty” creatures, but most of us now disregard this element, especially if you have read William Shakespeare’s “A Midsummer Night’s Dream”.

A most popular and decorative enchanted garden feature, faery statues come in a huge variety of styles, sizes and colours. As with the garden gnome, a faery statue that incorporates solar lighting is both a practical and attractive addition to the garden. Some faery statues come complete with a crystall ball or a gazing water dish.

A third popular enchanted garden design element is the angel and these too come in a variety of sizes and styles. Some angels are child-like, such as cherubs, whilst others are depicted as more “adult” in appearance. Whichever you choose, they are sure to be “at home” in an enchanted garden.

One style of angel statue that you may consider for your garden is one that has a solar light in the form of a ball, upon which the angel rests her head. At night, the light emits an almost ethereal glow, suggesting a halo around the angel’s head.

Yet another also uses solar lighting, yet this time the angel is holding a ball in in the palms of her hands in a gesture of offering. The illumination at night adds to the ethereal quality of the statue.

Many cultures, particularly Asian, perceive the frog as a symbol of prosperity and luck, or of fertility and abundance. Coupled with non-dangerous desert plants such as flowering cacti, one’s particular garden becomes a home for positive vibes. As such, any enchanted garden will benefit from the careful placement of a frog statue or two used surrounded by Euphorbia and many other desert plants in the Cactus family.

As with the other elements, there are many frog statues and solar lights from which to choose. Different colored plastic lenses can add to the mood of the garden at night.

These beautiful flowers are the center of many legends and grow wherever it is tropical and beautiful. Being aerial plants, these flowers usually grow off the ground attached to trees, rocks, or other vegetation. There are thousands of orchid species in an equal number of colors, fragrances, and blooms.

As orchid enthusiasts continue to experiment and cross-pollinate their plants, the variations in the flowers become mind-boggling. Let’s look at the three most well-known orchid species.

Dendrobium

These are one of the most popular species because of their wide range of color and geographically spread-out avialability. Growing primarily in Asia and the Philippines, these species of orchid can be found in New Zealand, Australia, and New Guinea as well. Their colors range the spectrum from pure white to dark purple to sunny yellow. Many hybrid versions of the dendrobium exist as hobbyists continue to work them into even more variety.

Cattleya

An extravagant orchid species, the Cattleya is beautiful and grows in South America and Asia and a handful of points between. They generally bloom in small groups of one to eight flowers per season and have a wide range of colors from white to deep purple and even yellows and reds. The Cattleya is a spreading plant and thus requires some room to grow and has artful stems and leaves to match the beautiful blooms it produces.

Vanda

These are somewhat strange-looking plants with very exotic flowers. One of the most easily recognized types of orchid, this plant is famous for its singular stalks which sprout very few leaves, each of which will contain a flower at its base. Most stalks will have five to twenty blooms and are a rare combination of stark simplicity and beautiful, extravagant color. This species is found all over the tropics, from the Philippines to Indonesia and on continents like India, Asia, and even on the Himalayas. Revered in many cultures as a symbol of the gods, this orchid is often grown as a centerpiece in gardens throughout the world.

When it comes to orchids, there are literally tens of thousands of individual species to choose from. The three mentioned here are merely the most common genres of this hugely popular tropical flower. Orchid-growing as a task is a challenge for most enthusiasts because of the specific climate requirements these beauties require, but it is a rewarding endeavor that they accomplish with love. Most large nurseries, flower shops, and other plant outlets will have some orchid species available for you to showcase in your home and will offer you some guide on orchid plant care.

The pivotal part of a landscape design is the choice of plants. This choice can either make the design successful or create a disaster, so it is vital that the plants be carefully chosen. The following questions should be considered when you are about to buy your plants.

What do you want the plants to do? Some examples are - aesthetic appeal, reducing noise, climate control, to provide a screen for privacy or to increase the value of the property. How big is the area you need to fill? What climate do you have in your area? This includes sun, shade, rain, snow and wind. Will your choice of plant thrive in your area? How much can you spend on the plants? How much will you be able to spend on the maintenance of the plants?

Types of Landscaping Plants

Trees

Trees are the most significant aspect of any landscape, as they not only provide the area with shade, they also prevent soil erosion and can be employed as wind breaks. The most popular trees used in landscaping are deciduous, weeping ornamentals (such as cherry) and fall foliage trees such as Japanese Maple.

Evergreens

An evergreen tree does not drop its leaves - it retains its beautiful foliage all year and as such is the “backbone” of a landscape design. The more commonly used evergreens are Fir trees, Junipers, Spruce, many varieties of Pine trees and Yew trees.

Bushes, Shrubs and Hedges

These are defined as plants that have a woody stem structure and grow up to six meters high. Unlike trees that have one or two main “trunks”, these have many stems that commence at ground level and then spread close to the ground. Bushes, shrubs and hedges can be “trained” to grow into certain shapes to add interest to the landscape. Boxwood makes an ideal hedge. Others that make interesting plantings are Alpine Currant, Barberries and Adam’s Needle.

Annuals and Perennials

These plants usually have short lives that are completed in one seasonal cycle, although perennials can continue through further cycles as they re-seed. In the right climatic conditions, perennials can continue to grow beyond the life span of their seeds.

Ornamental Grass

Ornamental grass, in addition to plants that require little attention such as the tough Aspidistra elatior, have become increasingly popular in modern landscape designs. The average height of ornamental grass is between six and fifteen inches, but they have many varieties of shape, color, size and texture.

Vines

Vines are climbers that require some form of support. This support can be in the form of a tree, other plants or a frame or wall. Vines can be used as an attractive cover on walls, but care should be taken as some can damage the mortar on brick walls. The vine can act as an insulator against high temperatures.

Ground Covers

These plants grow close to the ground and form a dense cover or they also grow surrounding a tree, such as the tough Aspidistra elatior, protecting the roots from any causes of soil erosion. They can be planted in place of grass and to prevent soil erosion.

There are a number of ways that landscaping plants can be bought. They can be “balled” plants (the roots are surrounded by soil and covered in burlap), packaged (the roots are wrapped in plastic, not necessarily with soil, but often with wood shavings), in containers or pots, bare-rooted or in “market” packs or punnets (ground covers, perennials and annuals).

Cuttings that have successfully developed into small plants will need be transferred from small pots to 5 inch pots as they grow. Ideally, this should be performed just as the roots reach the side limits of the pot and before the plant becomes “pot-bound”.

Be very careful when repotting that you do not remove too much of the soil around the root ball and that the plant is placed straight and upright in its new pot. The plant should then be treated as per repotted plants.

The use of a portable potting tray

A portable potting tray is very useful for people who do not have a greenhouse or potting shed. It can be made from 6 inch boards: the ideal size is a base of 24 x 15 inches, sides and back 9 inches deep and the front around 4 inches.

Seed raising of house plants

There are a number of house plants and in door plants that are easy to propagate from seed. These include Aloe, a succulent plant with medicinal qualities, species of Asparagus, some of the Begonias, many examples of Cacti, Clivias, Cyclamens, members of the Eucalyptus family, varieties of Fuchsia, Grevilleas including G. robusta, Opuntia, the Phoenix palm, Primulas, Ricinus, Rochea (another succulent), hybrids of Saintpaulia and Solatium capsicastrum.

The best compost

Seeds, including those above, can be sown in top quality rich potting soil.

If you decide to use compost it should be sterilized by heating it for approximately 10 minutes in a sterilizer at around 180 degrees F, then allowing it to cool before use by spreading it out on a level surface.

Cheshunt Compound sterilizer, which can be purchased at any seed store can also be used to sterilize compost. It is a powder that, when dissolved in water, can be lightly sprayed over the compost either before or after sowing the seeds. It is safe to use for both humans and the smallest seedlings. You can also sterilize equipment such as seed boxes and pots this way, rendering them pest free. A good compost for seeds can be made by adding peat, sand and fertilizer to sterilized loam.

Seed compost preparation

All ingredients to make the soils for repotting houseplants should be carefully mixed after being sifted through 1 inch mesh. In repotting plants, fill the bottom of the pots or seed pans with the larger pieces from the siftings to cover drainage holes before filling them with the finer compost. It should then be pressed down slightly with the fingers and then made moist by placing the pot in a water tray, making sure that the water does not come above the rim (the water has to come up through the compost). Once the surface of the soil appears moist it should be taken from the tray of water and allowed to drain for some time before any seeds are sowed. Seeds should be sown sparsely then covered with more sifted compost. Covering depth of the seeds is dependent upon the size of the seeds; generally, the smaller the seed, the finer the cover and larger seeds should have a coverage in proportion to their largest diameter.

Once the seeds are sown and covered, panes of glass can be used to cover them and sheets of paper can be used as shades.

Tilting the glass to afford air

Turn the glass panel over each day to prevent condensation dripping on to the soil as this can promote decay. Once the seedlings appear, remove the paper shade and begin ventilation. This can be achieved by raising one side of the glass slightly ( a plant label between the panel and the pot works well).Continue this until it is safe to remove the covering completely.

It is rather surprising the number of people who will purchase an indoor plant from a nursery and then leave them in the plastic pot they came in. So, what’s wrong with that? Simple! These pots were not designed to be permanent homes for the plants. Indoor plants require appropriate containers that allow room for their root system to expand and develop.

The Terra Cotta Pot

The most commonly used indoor plant pot is one that is made from terra cotta, meaning “baked earth”. This style of pot is made from clay that has a high nutrient content. The clay is formed into the desired shape and fired in a kiln. If left unpainted, the pot is a rich orange color.Such pots can be given a unique painted treament by you. Alternatively, you can purchase from a wide range of pre-glazed pots. Most pots have a central drainage hole in the base of the pot, so you will also require a matching saucer to catch any overflow of water from the pot.

Sturdy, Strong Ceramics

A ceramic pot does not come unglazed as it does not have the same attractive qualities as a terra cotta pot. The glaze adds to the strength and durability of the ceramic as well as being decorative. There is an enormous range of styles, sizes and colors of ceramic pots available for purchase from a number of specialty stores including nurseries and craft stores. Because many of these pots do not come with a drain hole, it is wise to choose them only for plants that do not require drainage.

Resin or Plastic Materials

Worried about breakages? A great alternative to terra cotta or ceramics, resin or strong, flexible plastic pots are made using special molds to create a huge range of styles, shapes, sizes and colors. Resin’s flexibility and ability to be colored in an almost infinite range of shades allows you to choose a pot to suit your home’s decor.

Galvanize Yourself

Galvanised metal containers are ideal for the person who is wanting to achieve a relaxed “country” atmosphere in their home. The galvanising process prevents the pot from rusting. Whilst there are purpose-built galvanised plant pots available, you may consider hunting around for a truly “rustic” piece such as a tub or bucket. The advantage of these pots is that drainage holes can be drilled as required into the base and a tray positioned under it to catch the overflow.

So you can see that there are many styles of “homes” for your new plants like for example the yucca plant, so be sure to purchase the pot at the same time as the plant and don’t forget the properplant care. You won’t have any excuse then for not re-housing the plant!

You can easily add beauty to your garden by adding a retaining wall that adds architectural interest to your lawn or flowerbed. Constructing a retaining wall is a relatively easy task but does require a certain amount of effort. Your wall must be strong enough to hold back the pressure of soil, and yet porous enough to allow for drainage.

Walls are usually built of stone. In using stone for a retaining wall, there are two basic types of construction: dry wall, wherein earth is the filler between the stones, and mortar, which uses cement as a bonding agent.

The base of any retaining wall must be about 6 inches into the ground, below the average frost line. The width of the base should equal 1/4 the height of the wall. The wall can taper to a width of about 1/4 the width of the base.

At intervals of about 2 feet at about 6 inches from ground level, drainpipes should be embedded, Some walls are porous enough without drainpipes, but if mortar is used, these pipes will be essential.

In dry wall construction it is possible (although not advisable) to start at ground level without sinking the wall below the frost line. The cheapest way to construct a dry wall is to choose local stones; large ones for the foremost stones and smaller ones for the cracks. Large stones should always form the base of the wall and the sides of the wall should be as level as possible. Stones with rounded surfaces should be discarded. They typically do not form a high-quality wall.

The edges of the stones should overlap one another and should be left in good bond. You should avoid leaving vertical cracks and any small spaces should be filled with earth and small stones or pebbles.

The wall itself should slope slightly and lean back against the soil it is to retain. This will you’re your wall greater strength. In most cases, the wall will slope as much as 5 to 6 inches for each foot in height.

Using a retaining wall as a wall garden as employed in most landscape designs enhances the beauty and the strength of a dry wall . It may take on a mossy and aged appearance simply by green planting within the crevice soil. A greater degree of color can be obtained by planting flowering plants whose roots will serve the additional function of holding the wall together. A pool landscape surrounded by flowering plants like as azaleas, alyssum, evergreen candy-tuft, heather, phlox, garden pinks, sedum, snowy rock cress, and creeping veronicas; are excellent landscape ideas for this purpose.

Mortared walls entail somewhat easier construction than do dry walls. The mortar serves as the bond and it is not as essential to match the stones. For the masonry wall, a cement mixture of 1 part cement and 2 parts sand will make a good bonding agent. Mortar should be liberally applied to form a bed for each stone as it is applied. The chinks between stones should be well-filled with pebbles or gravel. A mortared wall is more permanent than a dry wall and is also easier to construct.

Trees and shrubs are grown and looked after in much the same fashion. The major differences rest in the height of course, the fact that trees have just one trunk, while shrubs have multiple stems or trunks.

What was once a limited selection has now blossomed into a large variety of different shrubbery choices, thanks to the creation of several hybrid models of shrubs. Many of these shrubs have been adapted to grow in certain regions and conditions and at varying times of the year, making them perfect for areas that were otherwise restricted in their shrubbery choices. Shrubs can be used to cover bare patches of ground where growing grass has become difficult, or in depths that make it possible for the shrub to act as a privacy screen.

Shrubs also make great boundary markers, without having to rely on more artificial constructs like fences. They also have great decorative appeal, softening the lines between buildings, and serving as a perfect backdrop for flower beds. They add color, shape and variety to any garden or yard, with many of them producing colorful blossoms during their growing season, or attracting birds to feast on their berries.

Planting shrubs does differ slightly from planting trees. Shrubs should ideally be planted in the spring, giving them a long stretch of time to get established and acclimated. In areas where the temperature is relatively constant year-round this is less of a concern, and shrubs can be safely planted in the fall or even winter.

Like with planting flowers, a chief concern before planting should be to maintain moisture in the roots of the shrub. Water them as soon as possible after bringing them home, and continue to mulch the ground around their planting and shade them from sunshine after first planting. Pruning is also vital, and the older the shrub, the more this will be required. As such you may wish to buy less expensive, smaller shrubs, not only to save yourself money, but additional work as well. Also remember to water well in the fall before the ground freezes in areas with cool winters, as the leaves will lose moisture throughout the winter months.

Back to pruning, it’s a common practice with shrubs to cut all branches to an even length, which isn’t the ideal way to improve your plant’s health. You should focus on removing the older branches on landscaping shrubs, even though they may not have anything wrong with them. This will keep your shrub young and healthy, and prevent any problems before they happen. Most shrubs will need to be pruned yearly, especially in areas with harsher winters where the branches will suffer from winterkill. Flowering shrubs such as azaleas and magnolia should have their flower heads pruned after blossoming.

There are a variety of instances where outdoor projects will pop up that need to be completed quickly, especially when they involve an integral aspect of the house such as roofing. Depending on the time of the year and your work schedule or other duties, it may be very difficult to find the time to fit these projects in during daylight hours.

This will necessitate undertaking these projects at night, which will all but require you to find a good source of outdoor lighting suitable for the task. Thankfully there are a variety of outdoor lighting choices suitable for personal and industrial use. These light sources can keep the work running smoothly and on schedule, and most importantly, being performed safely.

Spotlights are a good choice of lighting for both personal and business uses. These lights can provide a large swath of light over an area, making it easy to perform even delicate work. They can also be shifted in their position to shine their light over a different area, should the work move to a different location.

For work that requires constant movement between multiple locations a more portable lighting source would probably be better. For work in a backyard area a floodlight that covers much of the backyard should be able to handle any work that needs to be done.

You may also consider having permanent light poles installed around the front of your house, along the street sidewalk, the walkway up to your front door and in the area around your garage or parking lot. These can help with any evening work that ever needs to be done in those areas, and also makes your home safer and more inviting at night.

Even when not doing work it’s important to have a well lit home at night. When you have children in your home especially, you’re bound to have all manner of toys and gadgets strewn about the lawn, walkways and driveways that may be tripped over if you’re not careful and don’t have adequate night-time lighting.

If you don’t want lighting of this nature on throughout the entire evening, you can go with motion sensitive lights or outdoor solar lights, which will safely show you the way around when you’re in the area and shut off once you’re gone. This can save you a good deal of money on your electric bills. These lights are also good for alerting your presence to someone else around your property if you can see them turn on from inside the house.